Atlantic bluefin tuna: They might be giants no more

HONOLULU—Last week, the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES) in Qatar failed to pass a ban on the export of Atlantic bluefin tuna. In the weeks leading up to the convention, Japanese fishmongers rallied in protest while Japan’s delegation said CITES should not have a role in regulating marine species. The ban was proposed based on statistics that said the Atlantic bluefin tuna population dropped 75 percent in recent decades.

Although I truly enjoy Hon Maguro (japanese for bluefin tuna) whether it is Akami, O or Chu toro, I was very disappointed to hear that the ban did not pass. Most people would think that someone like me, a sushi otaku, or sushi maniac, would at least be conflicted about a ban on the preciously delicious fish. I was not. I support a set term ban on the export and even catch of the fish.

I’ve been fortunate enough to have had the experience of catching Atlantic bluefin tuna. In my younger days, I was sent off to a fishing camp on the coast of Maine. Almost upon arrival in the van on the way from the airport, I was given the nickname “radar” because the circular glasses I wore aped those of the “O’Reily” who bore the original name. Early the next morning we set out to the boat that was to take us out to the deep blue in search of the prized fish. The boat itself wasn’t all that large, but a massive tower which reminded me of those famous crow’s nests of pirate yore. I also found it interesting that there were no pole holders on the side of the boat, but that there were eight to 10 very large bouys in rows running stem to stern on the bow.

As we got underway and furthered the distance from land, the captain explained what we were going to do and how we were going to do it.

In a clam shell, someone would stand on tuna lookout to, you guessed it, look ahead for tuna. Once a school was spotted we would come in from behind and match their speed. Once lined up, the captain would head to the bow of the boat, which was extended out a few feet further then the actual boat by a metal framed walkway.

Once on the walkway, the captain would then throw a harpoon attached by a 50 foot rope to one of the bouys into his choice of tuna. The tuna would veer off from the school taking the bouy with it. Each of the bouys had a flag attached to it with a distinct mark that represented the boat. The buoy prevented the tuna from diving away, eventually tiring it out to the point that we would be able to haul it on board. Each catch took about 3 hours, and we set up the harpooning rig again and went searching for more of the flightful fish.

That day was a good one for the captain and one of the most exciting days in my life. Besides catching some 20-30 pound bluefish on a spinner real “for lunch” as the captain said, we caught 4 bluefin tuna. The smallest weighed in at 525 lbs. and the largest at 989 lbs.

As we were pulling back into port, one of my camp mates pointed out a limo parked at the entrance to the dock. Two men dressed in suits exited the limo and made their way over to the boat. I asked the first mate who they were, and he said that they were Japanese businessmen here to buy the tuna. He went on to say that these fish would be on the first flight out of Boston on their way to Japan.

The simplest reason why I support a complete and temporary ban on the fishing and export of Atlantic bluefin tuna, is because I would one day like my son to have the experience of wenching a fine catch. Giants like the ones I caught haven’t been commonly seen for the last 20 years.

I want the next generations to be able to experience what I have. And if this means that I have to stop eating a fine delicacy for a while, I would gladly do so. I wish and hope that others feel the same way, and if there is ever a vote for something similar to the CITES ban that people will choose the right path.

Cheers!

David Hadway is The Hawaii Independent’s resident chef and operations manager. Fill your mind and your mouth with more food and beverage insights with Remixed Plate. Share your food stories or recipes by emailing [email protected].