Next stop, Taiwan: ‘The Beautiful Island’ is paradise for travelers of all types

To say Taiwan is underrated by Americans as a tourist destination is an understatement. Tell someone you are going to Bali or Bangkok or Hong Kong and no one will question your motives. But mention Taiwan and inevitably you will be greeted with a blank stare or, simply, a “why?!”  I know, because I went for the second time last month and this is the reaction I consistently got from even my most well-traveled friends.

The reality is that Taiwan offers something for everyone: urbanites, nature lovers, foodies, art enthusiasts, shopaholics, and pleasure-seekers of all sorts.  The island’s complicated history with mainland China (and Japan) makes for a fascinating mix of intense traditionalism—both in terms of Chinese culture and that of its indigenous people—and a distinct, dynamic culture of its own.

In addition, the Taiwanese tend to be overwhelmingly friendly, courteous, and generous with their knowledge, which tends to make the traveler’s experience a generally positive one. 

In their November 13 issue, The Economist reported that Taiwan’s standard of living has now passed that of Japan. In terms of annual income calculated at market exchange rates, the Japanese still earn more, but when adjusted for relative cost of living, Taiwanese earnings stretch much further.  As a visitor, this translates to more bang for your Taiwanese buck.

The following are three compelling reasons to promote Taiwan to the top of your list of places to visit: outstanding food, a dynamic art and consumer culture, and a stunning natural beauty that includes fabulous natural hot springs.

A foodie’s delight

The Taiwanese take eating seriously. Whether it’s a bowl of noodles for mere coinage or a splurge on sushi, the quality of the ingredients and execution in Taiwan is paramount. Their Chinese food is arguably the very best on the planet, despite the gross oversimplification of referring to it as such. In addition, their international eateries—Thai, Italian, French, Japanese, Korean, you name it—offer renditions of dishes that may very likely surpass that of the restaurants in their home countries.

Taipei, the largest city in Taiwan, is a foodie’s paradise. Perhaps the best strategy for eating there is the marathon approach of grazing slowly and steadily on xiaochi throughout the day. Xiaochi, translated as “little eats,” encompasses a vast range of dishes and styles, including succulent dumplings of countless varieties, sumptuous seafood, comforting noodle dishes, and tasty tea snacks.

Din Tai Fun sets the standard for soup dumplings and all kinds of satisfying carbo fare, but is hardly a secret among locals and Japanese tourists alike.  Go early, and still be prepared for a wait. It is well worth it, especially since the college neighborhood surrounding the original location on Xinyi Road is ripe for exploration.

Both the Shilin Night Market at the north end of Taipei, or the Raohe to the east, are great places to wander around and sample traditional Taiwanese dishes, such as oyster omelets. In between snacks, you can shop for gifts, toys, and novelties of every variety. Just make sure to end the gorge session at a shave ice stand. Fresh mango (if it’s in season) cannot be beat as a topping, but red bean or sweet taro are good alternatives.

If you smell something foul like a sewer, it might just be the stinky tofu, the only thing I adamantly refused to eat. Pigs’ feet, intestine, duck blood—bring it on, but stinky tofu is where I drew the line. .(JavaScript must be enabled to view this email address)

Street food is hardly limited to the night markets; it’s practically everywhere you look. But be sure to make a pilgrimage to Ay Chung Flour-Rice Noodle in the Ximen district, 8 Ermei Road. There is only one dish on the menu and it is served with amazing efficiency. All you have to do is choose small or large and embellish it with as little or as much fiery heat as your sinuses desire. I can see how people who move away from Taipei might get unbearable cravings for this bowl of heaven. The silky texture of the noodles contrasting with the gentle crunch of the intestine (yes, get over your squeamishness) is totally addictive and the delicious broth makes it one of the most unforgettable $2 meals you will ever eat.

If you are an aficionado of tea, Taiwan’s teahouses will make you swoon. I was particularly taken with a place called Chun Shui Tang, located at No.29 Yi Section, Nanjing East Road, Taipei, Taiwan 02-25213359 (near the Grand Formosa hotel). There are many other branches of this tea house, which is based in Taichung. I particularly recommend the sour plum green tea if you are in the mood for something hot, or the iced pearl milk tea for something richer. Both their sweet and savory snacks are first rate. Try the Turnip pudding, the Oolong tofu, the duck blood cake, “Kon-Fu” noodles, the mochi, and the unusual black sesame cake. An English menu is available, but it won’t explain the unusual offerings. 

Art and consumer culture abound

The visual stimulation in Taipei is arresting, and opportunities to see art abound. As far as museums are concerned, there are two institutions that should be mandatory for art lovers but that will also appeal to the casual traveler.

The National Palace Museum is like the Louvre of Chinese art.  Practically encyclopedic in scope, it is a treasure trove of ancient bronzes, celadon ceramics, calligraphy, Qing dynasty carvings so intricate and masterful that they defy comprehension, and everything in between. 

Also like the Louvre, visitors must accept that it is too much to absorb in one day. Either pick and choose from the vast collection, or make a repeat visit.  The grounds, with their lush Chinese gardens, provide a nice break in between viewing the galleries, as does the tranquil tea room with. The orientation room is an excellent introduction and guide, so use it, and pay the nominal fee to rent an audio guide. Follow these two suggestions, and the collection will seduce even those previously completely ignorant about Chinese art. The sheer fact that these Imperial treasures items survived Chiang Kai-sheck’s flee from China in 1949, when they were shipped, crate by crate, across the Taiwan straits is astonishing in itself.

For an excellent example of modern art, head to the scenic north coast (about an hour’s drive from Taipei) to the Juming Museum, which is technically more like a sculpture park celebrating Taiwan’s most famous sculptor, Ju Ming. The grounds, profusely punctuated by his signature, and blocky figures doing Tai Chi or other pursuits are beautifully landscaped.

The Jumping Museum is great for children too, especially in good weather, when you can use sidewalk chalk to create your own masterpieces along the paths (there is also a special indoor area, including a cafe, for young patrons of the arts). Afterwards, drive along to Longdonwan, and take a walk along the dramatically rugged coastline.

Taipei is a shopper’s paradise, with a wide variety of options ranging from the cheap and cheerful to high end luxury. The culture of the markets, both day markets and their nighttime counterparts, provide an excellent insight into Taiwanese daily life. Jade, traditional handicrafts, flowers, and food each have their own markets (some daily, some just on weekends), while the night markets combine many of these offerings—along with clothing, shoes, toys, electronics, knick knacks, and just about anything else you can think of—yet they are as much or more about socializing and leisure as they are about acquisition. A microcosm of Taiwan in many ways, the night markets are simultaneously traditional and modern in feel. 

Coming out of the MRT (Taiwan’s subway), the Ximending district feels a bit like Times Square or Piccadilly Circus with huge signs and neon lights. Then prepare to get lost in the labyrinth of pedestrian streets brimming with colorful, youth-oriented stalls, boutiques, clubs, and eateries. It becomes vibrant in a completely different, more intimate, way. The Red House market operates just across from the MRT station on weekend afternoons and evenings and is a great place to score affordable, one-of-a-kind apparel, jewelry, and gift items from up and coming local artisans.

There is no shortage of high-end malls, boutiques, and department stores in Taipei, either. An intrepid shopaholic could literally spend days exploring the endless range fashionable stores in the Xinyi district, home to Taipei 101, which was the world’s tallest building from it’s opening in 2003/4 until Dubai’s Burj Khalifa surpassed it earlier this year. One particular highlight in this area is Eslite Bookstore’s flagship store, with seven floors dedicated to one of the most spectacular display of books, magazines, and design accessories imaginable; just the food and cafe options alone more than merit a visit.

Restore your heart, body and mind

One way to tap into your spiritual side is to visit a temple. Even if religion is not your thing, a visit to one of the countless beautiful temples should be a “must do” on your itinerary. Two of my favorites within Taipei are Baoan and Longshan.

Baoan, a beautiful shrine on Hami Street, is located just north of the Confucius Temple. The principle deity honored here is Baosheng Dadi, the god of medicine or healing. The temple also won a UNESCO conservation award in 2003 in recognition of the restoration work done there in the 1990s. 

In one of the older neighborhoods of Taipei, a block north of the Longshan Temple MRT station, is the primarily Buddhist Longshan Temple, built in 1738.  This is one of the most visited cities in the temple, so be prepared to see lots of tourists as well as worshipers. If you are likely, your timing will coincide during the middle of a prayer session, an awesome multi-sensory spectacle, that includes chanting, incense burning, and the bestowing of offerings.

Finally, two of the best ways to escape the pressures of modern, urban existence are a foot massage and a soak in the hot springs. Thankfully, the Taiwanese regard these activities as life and health maintenance strategies, which means they are available and relatively affordable to the masses. An expert 60 minute foot and shoulder massage will run you about $35 including tip and there are walk-in parlors all over.

Natural hot springs also abound at various price points depending on location, amenities, whether you choose a private or shared experience, and so forth.  Many are within a stone’s throw of Taipei. Some well-known hot springs destinations include Beitou (full-fledged resort town), Yangmingshan National Park (just north of Taipei), and Wulai (also known for its magnificent water falls).

For those in a position to splurge (or can justify doing so after living large on the cheap in Taipei), head southeast to Mudanwan Villa. This extraordinary all inclusive hot springs resort is breathtakingly beautiful, nestled in the mountains of yet a short walk from the ocean. Delicious Japanese-inspired spa cuisine, an infinity pool, fishing, hiking, and of course, soaking in your own private, backyard hot springs pool are some highlights of this ridiculously relaxing experience. This place is where the Taiwanese elite go to relax, and I dare you to find a better place to unwind anywhere on the planet.