Locavores get a new frozen treat with OnoPops

HAWAII KAI—I have never been a Popsicle person. Sorbet is not a favorite of mine either. I tend to gravitate towards ice cream, with an emphasis on cream. As child of the ‘70s and ‘80s, when I think of “Popsicle,” I think “sweet”—and not sweet in a wholesome way, either.  Rather, the ice pops of my youth were artificially colored, flavored, and tended to stain my mouth an unattractive blue color. While my husband and daughters continue to enjoy frozen goodies of the Otter Pop variety, I would only reach for one in a fit of hot and sweaty desperation.

Hawaii has it’s own spin on the refreshing combination of ice and sweetness. We call it Shave Ice. And while it is way more appealing to me than Popsicles, particularly when paired with azuki beans and ice cream, it could rarely be called natural, let alone healthy.

So imagine my surprise when I plowed through two OnoPops ice pops yesterday afternoon, and would have easily gobbled a third had it been there for the taking. OnoPops is the brainchild of two brothers, Joe Welch and Josh Lanthier-Welch, who were born and raised in Hawaii Kai.

The inspiration for OnoPops was a popular neighborhood joint selling paletas (think Latin American ice pop, but fruitier and milkier) that Joe and his wife, Jessica, visited while vacationing in North Carolina last summer. As they were walking home licking their paletas, they began dreaming about the potential for a similar product in Hawaii.

As he explained, “We thought they were great, simple, fun, fresh and also intriguing as far as how far you could go with the flavors.” 

The paleta craze had already hit several cities on the mainland, but had yet to find its place in Hawaii. Still, it would only be a matter of time before someone else beat them to the punch, so they committed themselves to being Hawaii paleta ambassadors and immediately starting playing around with different flavors. 

The Mexican tradition has it’s own wacky combinations (chocolate bacon, anyone?) but Joe wanted to out a Hawaii stamp on the product. Conveniently, his older brother, Josh, who Joe refers to as a “total food geek,” had been working at a restaurant in San Francisco that was a victim of the recession.  He embraced the challenge of developing a high-quality locally-sourced ice pop, and made the decision to move back home after 20 years of living in various continental U.S. cities to dive head first into the ice pop business. His timing was perfect because Jessica quickly realized she was too busy with her own job and being a mother of two daughters to start a business.

I’ve heard the buzz and had been curious about these OnoPops for several months. Joe is a parent at my daughter’s school, and I’ve seen him driving his retrofitted pickup truck around town. Yesterday I had the pleasure of stopping by the Japanese American Institute for Management Science in Hawaii Kai (JAIMS), whose otherwise retired kitchen is now enjoying new life as the center of OnoPops production. Most of the equipment is used and sourced locally from restaurant supply stores, with the exception of their one big splurge: a fancy ice pop maker from Brazil. 

When I arrived that day at 4:00 p.m., the brothers were busily packaging what is destined to become a signature flavor: Ume-Thai Basil. Working fast to get done before they have to be out of the kitchen at 5:00 p.m. (JAIMS holds traditional “banking” hours), they were gracious enough to offer me a small window into the world of OnoPops production and let me taste the results.

The Ume-Thai Basil, one of their water-based flavors, may be based on the Mexican paleta tradition, but it takes this art of frozen confections to a different dimension. It elegantly represents the brothers’ desire to take their cues from our local, culinary traditions and is unlike anything I have ever tasted. The umebushi plum itself hails from Japanese Alps and is without msg or additives. Mixed with locally-sourced, organic thai basil and cane juice, the result is nothing short of transcendent: not really sweet, not too salty either, but salty enough that it is more a palate-tickler than dessert. This is a Popsicle for adults—the sour plum might not go over well with the keiki set—and is the perfect $3 stand-in for a gourmet meal when all you really need is a snack. It would go great alongside a beer, but is equally satisfying on its own when it’s mid-afternoon, it’s hot outside, and you still have work to do. 

They also make richer, milk-based flavors, such as the Guava Chiffon that I also had the pleasure of trying. This variety was less of a departure from more traditional frozen fruit bars that I’ve had in the past, but more refined while remaining kid-friendly. Other varieties I’m longing to sample include Kula Strawberry Maui Goat Cheese and Kona Latte. 

Each flavor combination boasts its own cartoon persona designed by Henrik Van Ryzin of BigDTV. The characters, such as Professor Umebushi and Basil Suyi from the Ume-tahi Basil variety, have a story behind them that should appeal to kids while educating them about the value of eating pure, local foods. Though adults, too, will enjoy the Otter Pop references. 

The dual emphasis on local ingredients and kid-friendly character art is no accident. As Joe puts it, “Our target audience is anyone from the 3-year-old who wants a cold treat to the 55-year-old foodie looking to arouse their palette. The people who will enjoy it the most are the ones who really believe in the locavore movement and supporting our local farmers.”

The flavors will appeal to everyone in Hawaii and beyond because, like Hawaii regional cuisine, they pull influences from the distinct types of people who have made Hawaii what it is today, Joe explained.

Whenever possible, the ingredients are made from the best examples of a product that the islands have to offer. If something is not produced locally, such as condensed milk, then they strive for organic. Ideally, it is both.

Currently, OnoPops can be found for $3 each at Mahiku Farmers Market on Saturdays from 3:00 p.m. to 7:00 p.m. at Koko Head Elementary; the Hawaii Farm Bureau Federation Honolulu Farmer’s Market from 4:00 p.m. to 7:00 p.m.; Wednesdays at Blaisdell Concert Hall lawn; and Muumuu Heaven at 767 Kailua Road. Starting May 22, they will also be available at the new green market at Kaiser High School run by the Haleiwa Farmers’ Market.

The brothers will also cater parties with their vintage Brazilian ice pop cart. Looks like after a colder-than-usual winter, summer has come early. Yum!

For more information, visit www.onopops.com.