Kaimuki got Soul

KAIMUKI—Since Chef Sean Priester left his post at Top of Waikiki last year, he has become a highlight of the lunchwagon and roving farmers market scene, serving up satisfyingly soulful lunches at an affordable price point. Now, his popular Soul Patrol wagon has a permanent home at Pacific Soul, located at 3040 Waialae Avenue, next door to The Fat Greek at the base of St. Louis Heights Drive. 

Pacific Soul came together very quickly—practically over night. This past weekend they enjoyed a “soft” opening, surprising those who didn’t believe the restaurant could open so fast.  As Chef Sean admitted, they were “still laying tile on Friday morning.” 

Occupying the space that was La Habana for a brief stint and a taco joint before that, Pacific Soul delivers Chef Sean’s Southern-inflected fusion cuisine to Kaimuki foodies looking for good value. For less than $10, diners can dig into combo plates that tickle the taste buds and are perfectly complemented by his signature Southern Sweet Ice Tea ($2) or your beverage of choice (no corkage fee). 

On Saturday night, I visited Pacific Soul with my husband, two friends, and all of our kids. By 6:00 p.m., the place was humming, with a short line already forming at the counter. We selected a few classics off of the regular menu: Caroline Pulled Pork Adobo ($8), Buttermilk Fried Chicken & Chilil ($11), and BBQ Spare Ribs ($12). We also splurged on two specials: Fried Catfish ($16) and Jambalaya ($20).

This is the kind of food that smells so good when it arrives that you don’t know where to begin, but since fried food tastes best eaten immediately, that’s where I started. The catfish was melt-in-your-mouth good. My only complaint was there was not a tartar sauce, which I think would have taken the dish to stratospheric heights. The dish came with hush puppies, which, for the unfamiliar, are essentially deep fried cornbread balls—what’s not to like? Too bad they cannot be ordered a la carte. 

There is a reason Sean is known for his fried chicken (Metromix declared it the best on island): it is perfectly moist and tender with a depth of flavor unknown in these parts, thanks to a wonderful seasoning blend and buttermilk soak. The kids immediately descended on the pulled pork, though there was nothing kiddish about it. The zippy sauce had the perfect vinegary kick and was not too sweet. Combined with his refreshingly unique coleslaw (he uses cilantro and achieves a perfect amount of creaminess), it makes an amazing sandwich. The ribs were copious and tasty, though I was more drawn to the sides: collards, cornbread, coleslaw, and vegetarian chili.

Let’s talk about the sides, which alone are a reason to try this place. Any dish you order comes with a generous mix of sides, augmenting the foods’ wholesome aura and making the plates all the more colorful. The organic collard greens would challenge anyone who is not a fan of dark greens to reconsider his position.  Braised with ham hocks and whatever other salty pork product Chef has on hand, they are surprisingly addictive and I will be trying to replicate them at home.  Vegetarians will enjoy a satisfying helping of the veggie-full chili, featuring black-eyed peas and served alongside his honey-and-butter-soaked cornbread.  We had to order extra cornbread; it was that good. Four-year-old Finn could not get enough of the slaw, so we got more of that too. 

The Jambalaya stood out for many reasons. All too often, rice dishes like Jambalaya result in gummy shrimp, but Chef Sean’s version features perfectly cooked, toothsome seafood. It also had a good kick to it, not too spicy, but not needing hot sauce either, which often drowns out the wonderful nuances of Southern flavorings. At $20, it is notably pricier than the other dishes, but since you can bring your own wine, it is doable and well worth the extra cost. Also on offer is Gumbo, which I will try next time.

Pacific Soul’s tagline is “Cuisine with Aloha & Spice.” This attribution may seem a tad hackneyed, but in the words of my husband, is “really true.” The food, while being on the rich side, is truly tasty and nourishing. It is “real” food, the kind that people can’t wait to tell their friends about, which is why although the restaurant officially reopens to the public on Wednesday, it might never need a “Grand Opening” to succeed.

Pacific Soul
3040 Waialae Avenue
(808) 542-8749
http://pacificsoulhawaii.com