Caffe Grazie offers an outdoor oasis in Downtown

DOWNTOWN—In addition to serving up tasty renditions of New York-Italian classics at an affordable price point, two prominent features distinguish Caffe Grazie from other Downtown lunch spots: ample outdoor dining and a whimsical playfulness.

Upon arriving I was immediately struck by the sounds of opera music, flashy chandeliers, flamboyant mannequins, classic toys, and the playful television programming featuring New York and Italian productions (the day we came, they were showing the popular Broadway musical Company). 

Co-owners Jim Doyle and Marco Kihm are both creative types who have lived in New York and it shows in the restaurant’s spirited vibe. 

Marco, a designer by trade, also studied in Italy and speaks Italian. He is responsible for the six colorful personalties of the “Grazie Girls” that set the funky tone of the cafe, each one representing a different facet of the restaurant: drinks, desserts, entertainment, food, staff, and coffee. Words cannot do these “girls” justice, but I guarantee they will bring some needed levity to your workday.

Once acclimated to the multi-sensory stimuli, it was time to get to the business of deciding what to order. Caffe Grazie serves breakfast and lunch from Monday through Friday, catering to the professional crowd. The menu is more traditional than the innovative decor would suggest. Offerings include a variety of sandwiches (including cold standards like tuna as well as salmon burgers and grilled paninis), salads, hot dogs, and daily plate lunch and pasta specials.

Everything on the menu is under $9, making it the kind of lunch spot to which you can afford to treat yourself regularly.

Although the selections are not exotic, they stand out thanks to Chef Kaiwa Razor’s execution and attention to detail.

My husband and I ordered the Chicken Breast Panini ($8.50) and the Special Daily Pasta ($7.50), which was Pasta Primavera. Our plan was to split both. We ordered at the counter and then selected an open table in the shade. Although the cafe was pleasantly busy for a Monday, our food arrived promptly and with a smile.

The Pasta Primavera featured a variety of fresh, local veggies (zucchini, mushrooms, asparagus, carrots, eggplant) sauteed in white wine and olive oil. The vegetables were served on a bed of perfectly al dente linguine and topped with a chiffonade of fresh basil and a sprinkling of parmesan cheese. Absent was the heavy cream so typical of this classic dish, allowing the vegetables to take center stage and not leaving the diner with buyer’s remorse (rich pastas being, after all, a lunchtime disaster unless siestas are tolerated in the workplace). 

I would recommend a light sprinkling of salt and freshly ground pepper to bring out the flavors of the vegetables, but am otherwise glad that Razor is not heavy-handed with his seasoning.

Also notable is the fact that each vegetable retained its unique texture. Overall, the dish was not assertive in its flavors but satisfying and tasty—definitely great value for the price. The pasta special includes a side salad and a roll, which was nothing special but perfect for mopping up the extra sauce.

The panini was simply superb, with all of its components working together to create the perfect sandwich. The focaccia retained much of its soft texture, despite being grilled. The chicken was moist and flavorful; it seems to have been brined to prevent the bland dryness typical of chicken breasts. Topped with peppers, onions, sauteed mushrooms, provolone cheese and basil pesto, the combination is a symphony of flavors and textures in the mouth, the kind of sandwich you are sad to finish because you want to keep eating it.  And despite it being so satisfying, it is neither greasy nor overwhelming large. The sandwich also comes with a tossed salad, to round out the meal.

My dining companion and husband Ian, who works at an engineering firm around the corner and frequents the cafe at least once a week, commented that the Pastrami sandwich, Lasagne with Garlic Bread special, and Grilled Eggplant Panini are also standouts. The fact that he enjoys the eggplant sandwich is a testament to how well the eggplant is cooked: not the slippery, rubbery, and flavorless mess that too often characterizes grilled eggplant. I, too, have tasted the eggplant panini, and enjoyed the combination of roasted red peppers, spinach, melted provolone, and sundried tomato pesto immensely. 

My only real criticism has to do with their decision to serve everything in styrofoam containers, which poses both environmental and esthetic problems. Such details as red and white checked tablecloths, fresh flowers at every table, and opera music are at odds with the styrofoam presentation. 

Beyond that, it takes away from a beautiful pasta dish to cram it into a small box, and then serve the side salad in another small box. I have had similar criticisms at other eateries due to the obvious waste such packaging produces, but find it even more of a shame at Caffe Grazie, since it is so inconsistent with their deliberate attempt to create a relaxed ambience.

That said, another option is to switch to Styrophobia or another biodegradable packing. I, for one, would be willing to pay the extra few cents to cover the cost.

On a more positive note, the modest prices allow diners to splurge on local coffee, teas, and gelato (Italian ice cream). I had a delicious passion fruit ice tea with my meal, and we both had gelatos to finish.

Caffe Grazie offers perhaps the largest selection of gelato of any restaurant in Hawaii. The twenty flavors are all locally made and a bargain at $2.85 each. We sampled Gianduja (a blend of chocolate, almond, and hazelnut), Lavender Honey (subtle but scrumptious), and Kona Coffee (a perfect post-lunch pick-me-up). We were not in the mood for a post-lunch coffee, but it is certainly worth mentioning that Caffe Grazie features their own blend of Oahu-grown Waialua beans and Costa Rican Arabica, sold by the cup or in 12-oz bags to take home.

Leaving the cafe I felt thankful for the unexpectedly restful break in my day and the expanded dining choices we’ve witnessed Downtown in recent years. Since “grazie” means “thank you” in Italian, clearly my sentiments were both appropriate and reciprocated.

For more information, visit http://www.graziehawaii.com.

Caffe Grazie
Suite 100, 345 Queen St.
Honolulu, HI 96813-4719
(808) 521-8820